the line sheet

ELSEWHERE

2011-11-12T13:24:00.000-08:00

Dear Blogfriend:

I've gone back and forth on this so many times, but have made the decision to blog on tumblr. I'm in the process of applying for grad school, and attempting to get published. I've found that blogger is an extremely time-consuming platform.

Hence...http://thelinesheet.tumblr.com/ -See you later!

LOOK | MARCUS MCKAY

2011-10-15T22:06:00.000-07:00

PHOTO DIARY | SOHO

2011-10-11T19:54:00.000-07:00

Is it wrong that to enjoy MIU MIU’s catalog featuring HAILEE STEINFELD* more than the shoes
she is modeling? Also found in the SoHo location were a pair of matches from IN GOD WE TRUST -
again proving that marketing objects can be more interesting than the objects they promote.

Perhaps that is why observing beautiful clothes can be more pleasurable than buying them. That was
the reason for this walkabout through SoHo which on the weekend, can dissolve any worries of the
work week.

On this occasion the cobbled street of Greene led me to a photographer named Harvey, selling this fine
print of Abraham Lincoln. When it was suggested that he should sell his prints, he explained that he was retired.
A pleasant discussion about photography ensued.

Passed the crowds on and East of Broadway, I found myself at SURF SATURDAY. It's lovely to drink
a coffee in the back-patio area. Going to a surf shop for coffee. Isn't that a funny thought?

And finally, onto Mott Street, and a peek into a place with out anything to sell, a place that I never noticed,
ST. PATRICKS.

*BRUCE WEBER's charming campaign for Miu Miu can be seen here.

NYFW SPRING 2012 | SALLY LAPOINTE

2011-10-07T17:30:00.000-07:00

I wish that I could convey how beautiful SALLY LAPOINTE’s 2012 presentation was in a blog post.
In a gallery, light floated through large windows that overlooked West 22nd Street. Shadows crept
through the foggy white space, and through dark archways, chandeliers twinkled. These hazy images
are merely a memory of a presentation and collection that I enjoyed.

The RENWICK RUINS, an abandoned smallpox hospital on Roosevelt Island built in 1856, served
as LaPointe's inspiration, hence the capped heads, the grey lips and ghostly silhouettes. The
models looked like angelic zombies with their structured jackets combined with soft skirts in chiffon
and jersey and long dresses. Despite the source of the inspiration, LaPointe's palette included pale
greens, bright yellows, and floral-pastel prints inspired by crumbling walls in addition to the blacks
and grays. I would recommend watching these videos over seeing static images of this collection:
VIDEO FASHION & SALLY LAPOINTE SPRING 2012. The hauntingly romantic collection and
its beautiful construction of the garments are best seen in motion.

Overheard, attendees remarked that the collection was reminiscent of Alexander McQueen.This is true
to a certain extent. In comparison, at least with this collection, LaPointe is a little more modern, less
dramatic, a bit more dégagé in comparison. Ironically, one of McQueen’s admirers, Lady Gaga is
also a fan of LaPointe.

I believe what attendees noticed, was that there is something special about LaPointe. To me, it was
how LaPointe was able to translate such a conceptual idea into a collection that was cohesive and
accessible (with the exception of a few heavy shoulders and itsy-bitsy underwear under sheer skirts).
I do wonder if that was intentional. What she did do, perhaps unintentionally, was provide substantial
credibility to a gothic-inspired aesthetic that isn't just a trend. Those sheer skirts that are currently so
popular LaPointe's have leather detailing and are beautifully made.

Despite this, I sense that LaPointe wanted to push a little further creatively, and maybe could have
made a collection that was a bit more avant-garde. Perhaps there are constraints that won’t allow
for that at this point in her career. (This is only LaPointe’s third collection.) When LaPointe spoke
to Video Fashion, she said, "Being in New York…there obviously isn't that much room for kind of
doing something a little outside of the boundaries."

As a creative in New York, I understand this statement. In regards to fashion, I found the past fashion
month to be a creatively stifling, but not for a lack of content. There were so many great collections
that should have received more attention. However, celebrity-oriented features seem to overshadow
deserving talent. This is disheartening. However, designers like Sally LaPointe remind me why I
continue to care about the fashion industry.

PLACES | THE BROOKLYN FLEA

2011-10-03T18:58:00.000-07:00

Tucked-away, beyond Bedford Avenue, along the East River is one of my favorite places in
Williamsburg to visit on a Sunday afternoon: THE BROOKLYN FLEA. *

I have been fond of flea markets since I was a child. It isn’t about buying anything, but rather,
been about seeing objects from different time-periods and lives. Going to a flea market is
similar to going to a museum, but different because for the most part it’s not curated. A tiny
brooch once treasured, now resides under a pile of other trinkets, once beloved treasures of
another person. These items: journeyed postcards, calicodresses, and faded photographs remind
me of how short life is. Will my belongings end up in a place like this when I am gone?

I am usually inspired by this gallery of memories and the macabre melancholy they bring. I have

a penchant for the past. It makes the present seem more valuable.

Above, are a few of my other findings from my visit this weekend. On this occasion, I found a

brown velvet blazer – a perfect fit and a perfect match to a crimson autumn lip and a brooch that

I found at another flea market in London!

If you happen to go, be sure to get there early. There is a doughnut stand that runs out of inventory
pretty fast! It is nice to enjoy a baked good with your findings and a view of the city.

* The Brooklyn Flea is only in Williamsburg on Sunday afternoons, until Thanksgiving.
Click HERE for other locations in Brooklyn.

NYFW SPRING 2012 | HONOR

2011-10-01T01:45:00.000-07:00

One of GIOVANNA RANDALL's inspirations for her Spring 2012 collection, was a photograph of

21-year-old Catherine Deneuve on her wedding-day. In the photograph, a gust of wind blows up her

dress, revealing a pair of lace knickers! Her husband, David Bailey, could not have thought of a more

perfect photo-op! She looks more like a sweet ingenue than the Yves Saint Laurent -clad-sophisticate
that she will portray a few years later in films such as La Chamade and Belle du Jour.

The charming sentiment of that image, was present during HONOR’s presentation at Lincoln Center.

To the delight of attendees, there was a wind-machine that rustled up billowing dresses of chiffon

and lace. The collection was absolutely optimistic and unapologetically feminine, with lace cream

holdups, paisley, plaid, polka-dots and full skirts (Randall calls these cupcake dresses) in baby-

blue, buttercup yellow, pale pink.

My favorite look was the floor-length BABY BLUE ABSENT COLLAR GEORGETTE GOWN.

They were paired with a slightly different shade of blue DIEPPA RESTREPO oxfords. The pairing

made for a modern-day Amy March.

Dresses are where Honor succeeded. The endless details including gold collars and a reverse
sweetheart neckline made it seem as if they were created in another era. Kirsten Dunst has
already been photographed wearing the show-opening PAISLEY CUPCAKE DRESS at the
London premiere for her upcoming film Melancholia. I am sure there are a few other dresses
in this collection that will be seen on the Hollywood crowd and they would be right at home
in the pages of LULA.

However, there were a few misgivings. Some of the models were just too thin to carry off some of

these ornate dresses. Also, a few suits would have worked so much better if they were have styled
differently! I would have love to seen the hot-pink pants paired with the sheer polka dot blouse.

In any case, trying on these clothes is going to be an absolute delight. The glowing praise Randall
has received for Honor isn't just hype, but is well-deserved. This is only her third collection surely,
there are many more beautiful dresses on the way!

*Photographs by JOHN ALEX BECK, courtesy of HONOR/KRUPP.

OPINION | SCOTT SCHUMAN DISCUSSES TAVI GEVINSON

2011-09-29T08:26:00.000-07:00

You may have read Scott Schuman's interview with
THE TALKS. Somewhere between talking about his
success and blogging, he became a bully. I am
referring to his remarksabout blogger, editor,
and L'OFFICIEL cover-girl,TAVI GEVINSON.

Of Tavi, he said: "Well I don’t think her audience
is that big. I think her success is a little bit of a
conspiracy by established print media that wanted
to show that this blog thing is not that important,
that it’s done by a bunch of twelve-year-olds.
But a lot of us are serious grown-ups. I think it’s
great that Tavi can create a blog and write for other
peoplethat are like-minded – probably other kids
around her age,but I don’t know how that is going
to help a 26-year old, if she has never had a
boyfriend...She’s just a kid, so she can talk about
art and stuff only in an abstract way…"

There are a few teenage girls who visit this blog,
all of them more insightful than I was as a teenager!
To anyone discouraged by Schuman's remarks about
Tavi and other bloggers, I ask, what would have
happened if Tavi would have listened to negative
criticism? She would not be where she is now.

My purpose of writing this post is to state that
the fashion industry has no problem putting teenage
girls on the runway, in magazines as models, and in
advertisement campaigns. We are entertained by
their youth and sometimes their demise. Yet,
when a young girl like Tavi becomes a succesful
writer and editor, adults get uncomfortable.
Why is it acceptable for teenage girls to become

supermodels, but not writers or editors in the fashion
industry? Scott has no problem shooting
teenagers for his blog, apparently earning hundreds
of thousands of dollars a year. Isn't that disturbing?

NYFW SPRING 2012 | ANNDRA NEEN

2011-09-26T20:34:00.000-07:00

ANNDRA NEEN was founded by sisters, PHOEBE and ANNETTE STEPHENS in
2009. Since then, they have created jewelry that can be described as organic yet
modern, bohemian but regal. They are inspired by their childhoods in Mexico City
(the location of their workshop where their jewelry is hand-made) as well as their
grandmother Annette Nancarrow (an artist who counted Frida Kahlo and Anaïs Nin
as close friends). If that isn't enough, Phoebe and Annette cite French Medieval
armor, antique jewelry, and Japanese design elements as design references.

Needless to say, I was quite excited to see the Spring 2012 collection. However,
waiting in line at Milk Studios was a peculiar experience. I felt as if I were waiting in
line to go to a night-club. At that moment, I realized what a dog-and-pony-show
fashion week can be.

At the presentation, I was confronted with the ultimate pony, THE TROJAN HORSE.
It was unintentionally humorous, but it became clear that the belly of this giant wooden
horse made by DASKAM & DWORKISC held some glorious bounty: metallic clutches,
chokers decorated with agate and onyx, bold cuffs, and rings with floral motifs to name
a few.

The simplicity of the presentation really allowed you to notice the detail and thought that
went into this collection. It was absolutely stunning. What's more impressive is that
Phoebe and Annette had the confidence in their work to showcase their work in this
way. It also sparked the imagination. What would you wear with a necklace attached to
with crystal-filled-abstract-triskaidecagons?

Of their collection and presentation, Phoebe and Annette said the following: "We were
inspired by new beginnings; by the pieces you want to wear to celebrate the first sight
of spring...We decided to encase the collection in a large sculptural wooden Trojan
Horse. After all, the Trojan Horse ended a period of instability and began an era of
prosperity."

Hopefully, this spring will find us prosperous enough to acquire the iconic ANNDRA NEEN
CAGED HANDBAG.

ON VIEW | THE LAST PRINTING

2011-09-22T19:42:00.000-07:00

DANZIGER GALLERY’s current exhibition, THE LAST PRINTING features the
photographs of EDWARD STEICHEN, printed by photographer GEORGE TICE.
The 84 prints include Steichen’s portraits of Katherine Hepburn and Loretta Young,
famed photographs of New York City, and iconic images featured in Vogue and
Vanity Fair. To view these images as prints is a moving experience.*

It must be remembered, that film is a completely different medium than digital-
photography. Many variables go into making a print. developing the film, handling
light to capture the details of the image, and bathing the image in chemicals to save
that light. So many things can go wrong and so many things can go so right, as
demonstrated by Tice's work. Tice who worked directly with Steichen, captured
that intangible and indescribable element that made his work distinctive.

Of his work, Steichen said, “When I first became interested in photography, I thought
it was the whole cheese. My idea was to have it recognized as one of the fine arts.
Today I don’t give a hoot in hell about it. The mission of photography is to explain
man to man and each man to himself. And that is no mean function. “ [cited in an
article commencinghis life}: “Popular Photography”, May 1974, “Through the Lens”].

I love this quote as it reflects that Steichen was interested in showing the beauty of
humanity to provide inspiration and joy to his viewers. This exhibition is a reminder
of that legacy.

I would recommend visiting Danziger to see this exhibition. (Tice's work is featured
in the Print Room and is equally worth the visit!) This photograph is entitled
"Heavy Roses"and was take in Voulangis, France in 1914. I was tempted to post more
images, but a print of Amelia Earhart or Frank Sinatra deserve to be viewed in person.

*THE LAST PRINTING is on view until 29 October 2011. For further details, click here.

NYFW SPRING 2012 | KAELEN

2011-09-20T05:07:00.000-07:00

Designer KAELEN Haworth presented her namesake Spring 2012 collection at Chelsea's

Drive-In Studios. Models stood between white tree-branches and sheer panels wearing

relaxed silhouettes in sheer silks, hand-woven macramé, and crushed velvet. The nude

palette was contrasted by pops of orange, sea foam, stripes and a Rorschach-like print.
pale eye-shadow and halo-like head pieces with dainty feathers transformed the models
into angelic wood-nymphs with ghostly secrets. Without reading the designer's statement,
it was clear that KAELEN was inspired by a magical forest.*

And indeed, the designer's statement states that the collection, has an "ethereal, folkloric
undertone…a soft, romantic tone against a hint of something darker."

There is something haunting about this collection, a long cotton cream dress knotted at the

hem comes to mind. With this collection is that KAELEN captured a zeitgeist hanging in the

air, one reacting against the aggressive aesthetic so popular in recent seasons.

My favorite ensemble was comprised of the Orange Cropped Tee in raw-silk paired with
the Draped Skirt in sheer peach chiffon . I was equally impressed by the Open Float
Macramé Sheath, the Slouch Short in velvet, and the Striped Cotton Blazer. The one
criticism I have for this collection applies to every designer: please stop designing rompers.
They are awful to wear and are incredibly dated.

I revealed my disdain for rompers to a fellow blogger and he disagreed. In fact the Button Up
Romper was his favorite garment in the collection, so what do I know? Another atendee said
that the collection was too safe, too accessible. However, I disagree. Throw on black lipstick
on one of these girls, along with a pair of Doc Martens, and ombre-dyed hair; and voila you
have an "edgy" collection. It's a matter of styling and most of these pieces are versatile to suit
any aesthetic. In any case, I'm more than willing to escape to a magical forrest with these clothes!

*See the full collection here.

OBJECTS | LA CAHIER BY O-CHECK

2011-09-14T23:01:00.000-07:00

This fashion week I was reminded that the most important accessory (for a writer)
is a notepad. The truth is, an iPad just doesn't cut it. The most simple concepts
have become lost on me in this digital world! Thus, this week, I often found
myself digging for scraps of paper to write down people's names and blog-post
ideas. This will no longer be my mode of documentation. I've found the official
"The Line Sheet" notepad!

Designed by O-CHECK GRAPHICS, this notebook can be purchased online or at
the charming boutique CAT BIRD. At five dollars each, I had better stock-up. This
adorable bunny is bound to ~~hop out~~ sell-out! I am happy to have found the perfect
place for my thoughts to hop onto!

NYFW SPRING 2012 | ERICKSON BEAMON

2011-09-13T22:21:00.000-07:00

Jewelry designer ERICKSON BEAMON (Karen & Erick Ericskon and Vicki Beamon)
have dazzled the fashion industry with their glamorously-bohemian jewelry since 1983.
Theycontinued to do so with their Spring 2012 collection: THE REDEMPTION OF EVE |
RETURN TO THE GARDEN.

Highlights included vintage-inspired necklaces that could have belonged to Auntie Mame's

beloved Vera Charles and a pink feathered headdress deserving of Jean Harlow. Tropical-
colored beads and flowers kept the collection playful.

The models were perched like birds on a scaffold and wore barely-there clothing
by Kiki de Montparnasse. The multi-colored manicures (by BUTTER) in yellow, blue, pink
and red were a fun detail. Eyes were lined in neon shadow and glitter. Feathers were on
eyelashes and dark sparkly lipstick donned puckered lips. Imagine a mondern-day Clara Bow.

The presentation, held at Milk was delightfully over-the-top. On one side of the space,

jewelry was displayed on models, foliage, trees, and mannequins. On the other side,

feathered dancers frolicked to cellist, Danny Bensi and singer, Jeffrey Palmer. In attendance

were editors galore, including Hamish Bowles. More importantly there were pearls, lots of pearls.

MUSIC | THE CLIC CLACK BOOM

2011-09-13T00:41:00.000-07:00

I shuddered with dread upon my arrival in SoHo for Fashion's Night Out.
Anyone who walked past DASH that night understands my sentiment.
Although FNO, was a bit silly this year, I did have a great time in large
part due to THE CLICK CLACK BOOM performance at PENGUIN.

What I love about The Click Clack Boom, is how happy the make their
audiencewhen they play their pop-rock melodies. It's disarming. Their
performances always make me feel like I'm a teenager in an episode of
American Band Stand; they are that earnest!

When I was a teenager, I went to high school with the drummer, Grant
Wilson. As somebody who comes from a very small town, it's great to
see somebody with a similar background succeed in New York City!
Believe me, it is no easy feat.

I was reminded of this on FNO and decided to discard my pretense and
enjoy the night. Cheers to my fellow comrades in search of free alcohol
and happy fashion week! Embrace the frivolity of it all! It need not be so
serious! After all? Fashion's purpose is to make people happy. Here are
two songs that will do just that: "OPEN HANDS" and "ZBKB."

LOOKBOOK | CHARLOTTE LINTON

2011-08-26T21:24:00.000-07:00

I discovered CHARLOTTE LINTON, a London based print-designer and fashion writer, while reading the blog, MISS MOSS.
The images from her current look book, for her Fall 2011 collection of scarves entitled "The Himalayas" enchanted me.
These images encapsulate effortless style.

You don't need a lot to have great style, just a few great ideas. In our current era of fast-fashion where more is more,
Charlotte is a reminder of how glamorous simplicity is. "THE HIMALAYAS" collection only consists of six scarves, but
each piece reveals an artist who is truly interested in perfecting a craft, and transforming that into a wearable garment.
In complete honesty, all you need to transform your wardrobe for fall is one beautiful garment such as one of
Charlotte's scarves.

On Charlotte's website, a statement about the collection reads, "Charlotte has been heavily influenced by antique imagery
of naturalists and narratives of colonial exploration; from Hergé’s The Adventures of Tin Tin to archive papers held at the
London Zoological Society. This has led to the creation of her own fictional muse named ERMANTRUDE; a zoologist traveling
around the world in the earlier part of the 20th century."

Doesn't that sound fascinating? And who is this muse, Ermantrude?
By way of email Charlotte spoke to me about her muse and her work. I was very excited to learn that Charlotte is also in
the process of designing an apparel collection!

THE LINE SHEET| Right now prints are popular, but in a way that is thoughtful  and intelligent. So much goes into making a good print. Yet, the  process of making a print isn't often the topic of discussion. What goes into  designing a print?

CHARLOTTE LINTON| I think it depends on who the print designer is designing for and the level of control and time they have. Sometimes the best prints can be the very simple ones where a designer has stumbled across a great graphic or image which could be repeated or placed as a print but it is often the result of months of work and development.

For me it is not until I have researched my subject thoroughly that I chance upon these images and ideas which spark the creativity, I visit many different libraries and museums in London and trawl the internet to built a large body of research. Once the ideas are formed I then rework them from an initial quick sketch to the final piece. The whole process often taking months from start to finish.

TLS| You have such an impressive background. From reading about your education and of course from looking at your work, it is apparent that you have taken the time to develop your craft. Can you discuss that?

CL| Although I think my style and subject matter was developed at [Central] St. Martins, a college which emphasizes ones need to be creative rather than practical, it was at The Royal College of Art, that I had the time and resources to experiment and grow. It was not until I left education that I felt I had the freedom to create the sort of prints I am doing at the moment. I feel it’s really important to always push yourself as a designer and I feel that I am still trying to do this with each new project.

TLS| What made you want to become a print designer?

CL| I studied Foundation Art at St. Martins and the tutors there suggested which course they felt we should apply for, I trusted their judgement and I am lucky that print design happens to combine everything I love to do.

TLS| Who are your favorite designers and artists right now?

CL| BETTY JACKSON, a British designer not so well known in the states which is unfortunate as she is an amazing woman and designer and her clothes are always ahead of trend and I am a long term devotee of Dries Van Noten. Also, my friend FANNY KARST who is the designer at THE OLD LADIES REBELLION is really doing something new and wonderful for the older generation.

TLS| Where can one buy your scarves?

Currently at COUVERTURE, a beautiful Notting Hill boutique and directly from me, through mywebsite. I also have a capsule Collection of womenswear and accessories for Anthropologie coming out in October called Zoologist by Charlotte Linton.  

TLS| Can you tell us about your current collection and your muse Ermantrude. Where did she come from? I love reading about her adventures on your blog. What will she go next?

CL| The new collection for SS12 is about JAVA. Indonesia has very rich cultural traditions with many different ethnic groups having their own style of these traditions – great examples of this are seen in the variety of dance and entertainment. It also has wonderful wildlife which ERMANTRUDE can’t get enough of. So the new collection will incorporate dance, palms and fishing cats.

Ermantrude was a vision in a dream I had whilst I was studying for my BA. She was such a character and I was so excited to have found her, she felt so familiar to me even though she was fictional. I then started to use her as a muse and her life grew from there. Where she is going next is still a work in progress - she is awaiting a telegram from noted explorer...

TLS|  What is your favorite way to wear a scarf?  

CL| I am quite traditional and normally wear it around my neck or waist but I think for Autumn I am going to be trying the CAPE scarf as a cape like we photographed it for the lookbook.

PHOTO DIARY | BEAUTY #

2011-08-17T21:59:00.000-07:00

Lately, I have been carrying my camera around, capturing moments that make me smile.
After reviewing these images, I realized that beauty is often unintentional. For instance,
advertisements and window displays for clothing are often more beautiful than then the
objects themselves (Beauty #3 & #5). Has it always been this way?

The boombox, an object that was so ordinary during my childhood is now a relic to be
displayed at CLIC, an art and book gallery (Beauty #2). This is frightening, so much so
that it is romantic and now beautiful.

Smoking looks beautiful (Beauty #4), but it really is not.
Beautiful shoes are a bettervice (Beauty #6).

In Williamsburg, a pile of discarded detergent containers that has been tethered together
outside somebody's apartment is beautiful (Beauty #1). Look! There is also a baby-doll
thrown in there. (Brilliant!) Weeks have gone by and I still imagine a manicure or chiffon
dress made from the palette of this collected garbage.

Beautiful and sad, is the Christian LaCroix boutique which is forever gone (Beauty #7).
A "for rent" sign is displayed in the window rather than taffeta dresses. La Croix would
know how to make a beautiful dress inspired by my beloved detergent containers.

FALL PIECES | SWATCHOGRAPHS

2011-08-14T19:19:00.000-07:00

THE ROW STROM JACKET at BARNEYS | This cashmere coat features details such as draped lapels, slash pockets and a pleated back. | ON THE RUNWAY

MISSONI METALLIC CHEVRON MAXI SCARF at SAKS FIFTH AVENUE.

MARC JACOBS RUFFLE COLLAR BLOUSE at SAKS FIFTH AVENUE | When worn, this blouse's potential as a classic piece is realized. | ON THE RUNWAY

STELLA MCCARTNEY PENELOPE DRESS at BARNEYS | This fern print is a nice alternative to the popular hot-house-florals. | ON THE RUNWAY

ALEXANDER WANG RUST LEATHER ZIPPER VEST at BERGDORF GOODMAN | This makes Freja Beha's leather jacket seem passé. ON THE RUNWAY

Autumn has arrived at my favorite window-shopping venues: Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf

Goodman,and Barneys. Let me be clear: the only way that I will be ableto own any of these

garments is if I secret them into my closet. ( I stole this clever line from tweeter @MC1RK.)

Nonetheless it's fun to pretend I am eighty-years-old and able to afford finely crafted

cashmere coats. I would be the chicest octogenarian if I wore these pieces.

Hence the following swatchographs of my favorite selections for fall. Click the link

under the caption that reads "ON THE RUNWAY" to see the complete pieces. The textures
and/or prints of these garments
deserve to be showcased.

KYOTO INSTITUTE | DIGITAL ARCHIVES

2011-07-31T21:07:00.000-07:00

c. 1908-Italia Material: White cotton Irish crochet; three-dimensional motifs of flowers and dragonflies. ©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takashi Hatakeyama

brassiere c. 1920s-unknown Material: Pink silk georgette with lace insertion; flower ornament. ©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takashi Hatakeyama

c. 1944 Designer: Madame Grès Material: White silk jersey; finely pleated; eleven bones inside bodice. ©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takashi Hatakeyama

Turban [Upper left] c. 1945 Brand: Hellen & René Material: Brown silk georgette. Dimension: Turban [Upper center] c. 1943 Designer: Gérard Albouy Brand: Albouy Label: ALBOUY 49, RUE DU COLISÉE ELYsée 91-23 PARIS Material: Red velvet. Turban [Upper right] c. 1945 Brand: Janine Label: JANINE Opé 27-92 S4 Rue Vignon PARIS Material: Silk crepe printed in navy, white and red, padding at top. Hat [Lower left] c. 1945 Designer: Marie-Louise Bruyère Brand: Bruyère Label: BRUYÈRE 22, PLACE VENDÔME, PARIS Material: Beige straw with black silk faille ribbon and hatpin. Turban[Lower middle] c. 1943 Brand: Caroline Ranchin Label: Caroline Ranchin 10, RUE DUPHOT PARIS Material: Pink velvet with hatpin. Turban [Lower right] c. 1944 Designer: Marie-Louise Bruyère Brand: Bruyère Label: BRUYÈRE 22, PLACE VENDÔME, PARIS Material: Pale gray wool jersey. ©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takashi Hatakeyama

c. late 1950sDesigner: Roger Vivier Brand: Christian Dior Label: Christian Dior créé par Roger Vivier Material: Ice-green silk twill with black dot print; ribbon ornamentation. ©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Masayuki Hayashi

1962, Autumn - Winter Designer: Cristobal Balenciaga Brand: Balenciaga Label: (172 Stamp) (JACQUELINE-GINETTE ANNA Handwriting) Material: Black gazar with all-over black plastic paillette embroidery. ©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takashi Hatakeyama

The KYOTO COSTUME INSTITUTE made its way to the my Tumblr dashboard via
THE SEA HAS NEITHER MEANING NOR PITY, proving that Tumblr isn't just an
endless scroll of kittens and stills from The Virgin Suicides, but a source of inspiration.

Although I didn't make my way to The Met to see the Savage Beauty exhibition this
weekend, I spent hours viewing Kyoto Costume Institute's digital archives that feature
garments from as earlyas 1720 and as late as 1999. The images above are my favorite
pieces from the KCI archives. (The captions link to the page where they were found.)

I was most intrigued by the polka-dot flats designed by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior
in the late 1950s. Do they look familiar? They have an uncanny resemblance to
Marc Jacobs's iconic mouse flats designed almost fifty years later!

There are lots of other discoveries and inspiration to be found on the KCI archives.
If you love fashion history and have the time to view the archives, you are in for a treat!

v a c a t i o n

2011-07-17T16:22:00.000-07:00

TLS will be back on 7.31!

DIGITAL INSPIRATION |

2011-07-06T23:36:00.000-07:00

OBJECT-LESSON is the online equivalent to receiving a beautiful postcard in the mail five
days a week. Every day, one object with a brief description. Whether it is a mask from 16th
century Nigeriaor a necklace designed by Edith Head, Object-Lesson is bound to incite
thoughts about art, design,and history. If you are an artist or a designer a collector or thinker,
it would serve you well to sign up for Carol Fertig's Object-Lesson.

CAROL FERTIG is the creator of Object-Lesson. With a background as a fine artist, Carol seems

to have designed almost everything including clothing, furniture, dinnerware, and stationery.

Her work has been featured in Elle Décor and Harper’s Bazaar and can even be found

at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and F.I.T. Sheis the perfect person to curate such a project.

Here are a few creations by Carol Fertig and Subjects of OBJECT-LESSON:

From left to right, subjects of Object-Lesson| Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis's charm bracelet, a brooch Diana Vreeland made from her mother's necklace and a photograph of Louise Neri by David Seidner.

From left to right, creations by Carol Fertig| Medallion signature wrap used for packaging and wallpaper, a hand silk-screened print and Sea Life Coral wrap-paper.

Carol was kind enough to discuss her work and Object-Lesson:

THE LINE SHEET| Can you introduce yourself? Your fantastic website showcases your lovely work as
an artist and a designer. It is interesting and inspiring that you are involved with different projects.
Is there anything you would like to share about yourself?

CAROL FERTIG| I love to work! I am fortunate in that I have managed to incorporate my work into
my 24/7 life.I don’t think of any of it as being separated -my choices in my home, the way I dress,
what I choose to see and listen to, it all seems to be the same to me. In some sense this is problematic
as I tend to “obsess” over small decisions, but I have learned to live with it! As for being an artist,
an editor, and a brand developer, it is really the same as above. I approach everything with the same
sensibility and intent. I enjoy the diversity and believe one discipline helps the other.

TLS| How would you describe your art?

CF| I see my place in the world as taking historical references and moving them forward into the 21^st century.
I am also very interested in decoration -that is no matter how far back in time you go, people always had
the same primal drive to in some way decorate. One of the things I am trying to accomplish on Object-Lesson
is to point out how something very new and modern relies on the past, and pieces from the past
(sometimes 500 b.c. or back) look so fresh and modern to us now. That is because the maker had “the eye.”
I am also fascinated how (I think) there is little that divides “art” and “design” if the execution is at the highest level.

TLS| Why did you become a visual artist?

CF| I don’t think I had a choice, I was driven.

TLS| What projects are you most proud of?

CF| I actually think Object-Lesson because it reaches (and informs) an audience to things I am excited about
all over the board.

TLS| How, why, and when did you create Object-Lesson?

CF| I got the idea about 10 months ago. It took me a couple of months to “gestate” and then
a couple of months to refine. I am now obsessed with finding objects that will always surprise and delight.
Frankly, I wanted to do something online but felt I needed something I could “handle” and at the same time
have an original (my) stamp on it.

TLS| As a curator, how do you find your subjects for Object-Lesson?

CF| At first, I explored my own library. I have an extensive collection of picture books and a lifelong
collection of postcards from museums all over the world. I also look online for things I like,
research them, and then try to find the right example to show my audience. One of my self imposed “rules”
is to not feature anything I think has been seen around. It is one of the reasons I don’t show more fashion.
I mean, who needs me to show you another Chanel suit?!? Also, as the name implies, I want people to take
away the sense that they have learned something they didn’t already know, and perhaps strike a new interest
for them. One of the nicest emails I got from a subscriber was a photo of a project she created based on one
of my daily posts.

TLS| Who are your favorite artists and designers?

CF| I think more than [just] particular artists or designers (although Gio Ponti and [Piero] Fornasetti
are long time heroes).I admire people who are brave in their thinking and are able to translate that into real “stuff.”

TLS| Do you live in New York City What is your favorite place? Where do you get inspiration?

CF| I do live in New York City, [I was] born here, and have lived here most of my life.
The Metropolitan Museum is a constant source of amazement to me.

FILM| L'AMOUR FOU [MAD LOVE]

2011-06-15T17:48:00.000-07:00

Photograph by HEDI SLIMANE (This image is not associated with the film, but it does captures its spirit, perfectly.)

In the documentary L'AMOUR FOU, Pierre Bergé shares memories of his life (and "mad love") with
Yves Saint Laurent as their belongings from three homes in Paris, Normandy, and Marrakesh are
being prepared to be sold at auction. Lingering shots ofpaintings, sculptures, photographs, and books
being packed away, allow for contemplationof the fate of Laurent's possessions, and also the fate of
Yves Saint Larent's legacy. For those who knew Laurent, memories are the most valuable thing that
remain. In addition to Bergé, Loulou Falaise and Betty Catroux discuss their friendship with Laurent.
For the rest of us, will Laurent be remembered as a brand: a tube of Touche Éclat stamped with the
eponymous YSL logo? Or will Laurent be remembered for his legacy as an artist whose contributions
to fashion will be prevalent for decades to come?

With the brand alive and the artist gone, maintaining Larent's legacy as an artist (rather than an object)
may prove tobe difficult, especially if these recent headlines indicate the future: "You Didn't Invent
Red Soles"or"Yves Saint Laurent Still Sells Cigarettes While Marketing 'Socially Responsible'
$1,720 Handbag."

It is important to remember that Laurent was no purist when it came to the business of fashion. He
had no problem with licensing his name to sell items such as belts, stockings, and cigarettes -until
his name was cheapened by this exploitation. Pierre admits "[Laurent] was a man who understood
his times better than anybody, but didn't like it."And it is revealed in L'amour Fou, that Laurent
struggled with fame and success. Bergé says, " Fame is the dazzling mourning of success. The fame
brought him nothing but misery."

Despite all this, until his his last collection in 2002, there was always beautiful clothes designed by
Laurent. In one scene, LouLou remembers Saint Laurent sketching 40,000 dresses for his iconic
Russian collection. She described the experience as "unsettling." This moment reveals how dedicated
Laurent was to his craft.

In a clip from an interview that appears in the film, Laurent says, "When people are comfortable in
their clothes, they are more happy!" He says this with such earnest and with the a genuine smile.
Suddenly it is apparent that moment of happiness he created, must have been one of his great motivators.

Moments like this are why "L'Amour Fou" succeeds as a tribute to this great designer. And as Laurent's
objects are sold at auction to benefit the Pierré Berge - YVES SAINT LAURENT FOUNDATION, "L'amour
Fou" is a reminder that YSL is more than an object, but a man who struggled with his life and his place
in the world, while making it more beautiful.

MUSIC| WATERCOLOURS

2011-05-22T17:24:00.000-07:00

While reading the blog, OH HELLO THERE (a meticulously-crafted stream of consciousness)

the song "Under" by WATERCOLOURS was found. "Under" is essential to any summer

soundtrack wanting fordream pop. Like the band War Paint, WATERCOLOURS could be

an influential voice in the dream-pop-genre. Hopefully, this New-Zealand-newbie will produce

more enchanting songs this year. Updates can be found on WATERCOLOURS's Facebook,

Bandcamp page, and blog.

RESORT 2012: OSCAR DE LA RENTA

2011-05-17T22:06:00.000-07:00

Pablo Picasso's influences can be seen in these Oscar de la Renta ensembles. PAINTINGS FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: 1. "Seated Woman with Wrist Watch,” - 1932 2. "The Kiss" - 1969 3. "Studio with Plaster Head" - 1925 4. "Woman Crying" - 1937 5. "The Three Dancers" - 1925 6."Baby in a Polka Dot Robe" - 1947

Every season, OSCAR DE LA RENTA consistently makes beautiful and glamorous clothes. His latest collection is no different. What is different this time around, is that his frocks seems more modern and more youthful than they have in recent years. Inspired by Pablo Picasso, bold patterns, bright colors, and romantic patterns, show up in dresses, bathing suits, skirts and cardigans that are themselves, pieces of art.

Ironically, it was Picasso who once said, "There are only two types of women: goddesses and doormats." Picasso was known to treat women like the latter. However, anyone familiar with Oscar de la Renta knows that his clothing has the ability to make a woman feel like a goddess. With the exception of a few dowdy suits, this collection is complete proof. Even those who are having trouble letting go of their studded leather, leggings, and tough blazers, may be tempted to don a pretty frock after viewing this collection.

Resort is turning out to be a influential and substantial influential season. If this collection is any indication of what is to come in the upcoming fashion seasons, it will be nice to see more clothes that are as pretty as a picture.

MAQUILLAGE| SOFIA COPPOLA

2011-05-15T20:44:00.000-07:00

SOFIA COPPOLA is one of my favorite fashion icons because she approaches fashion with intelligence, but is able to remain effortless, natural, and more importantly, herself. Although she has been in the spotlight for nearly two decades, a look back reveals she has never fallen prey to fleeting trends. You won’t find any pictures of Sofia in Balmain blazers or sky-high Louboutins, but you will find images like this.

In December 1992, Sofia was the cover girl for Vogue Italia . Photographed by Steven Meisel, this issue is worth its weight in gold. If you feel the same way, it is actually available for purchase on EBAY.

Or you could use that money to buy the makeup to acquire this flawless look. Although I don’t know the exact makeup used for this photograph, I would guess that the following would work perfectly:

+Foundation: L’OREAL TRUE MATCH provides perfect coverage while leaving a matte finish.

+Lipstick: NARS Velvet Lip pencil in Forbidden Red is the perfect red as it has a touch of orange. It also has been discontinued but is still available in a few stores. I suggest snagging as many as you can, while you can!

+Eyebrow Brush: For full eyebrows, you don’t really need a pencil. A brush can really re-shape your brows. Try this one by SEPHORA.

ONE LOOK | CANSO VARSITY BY SHIPLEY & HALMOS

2011-05-15T16:11:00.000-07:00

This look from SHIPLEY & HALMOS's Spring 2011 collection represents how I will be approaching
summer: nice and easy. I think of it as, Fiona Apple meets Weezer to play hacky-sack before the filming
of "Say It Ain't So."

I remember the summer I first saw the music video for "Say It Ain't So." It was 1995. And I remember
that summer was filled with trips to the local video-game arcade where I would sip slush puppies from
7-11 while admiring teens much cooler than me in their black chucks and lavender-streaked hair. It was
a simple but lovely time in my life.

This year, I plan on having a simple and charming summer. SHIPLEY & HALMOS, it turns out, makes
perfect attire for such a summer. One could argue that the simplicity in this outfit is a cinch. Yet, I find
basic and well-made garments are the most difficult to find. Also, I love to see garments presented in
away that will assure me that a designer’s current collection will bewell assimilated into my wardrobe.

The Canso Varsity Jacket featured here would be a welcomed addition. It's priced a bit dear at eight
hundred dollars, but I have ways of acquiringfine garments at bargain prices. I can't think of
a better piece to accompany my trips to Bakeri to sipiced coffee and nibble lavender shortcakes
while admiring the residents of Williamsburg in their black Doc Martens and ombre-dyed hair.

DESIGNERS | KRISTEN LOVE

2011-05-02T19:34:00.000-07:00

Hats off to KRISTEN LOVE: swimsuit designer by day and milliner by night. Kristin Love took her first millinery class at F.I.T. while studying Fashion Design and enjoyed it so much she decided to complete the F.I.T. Millinery Program. That was in 2004 and she has been making hats ever since!

I have known Love for almost four years but never realized how dedicated she was to millinery, until I saw her work on her Facebook page. Love is so modest that she never even mentioned that her hats were featured on RACHEL Rachel Roy's website and also in Kourtney and Khloe Take New York.

When I saw Love's work, one thing was certain, there was no need for me to be quiet about her talent. I invited myself and one of my favorite photographers MINO INOU to see Love's hats. After a delicious brunch at Matchless, we went to Love's Greenpoint apartment where we dug out her hats, went through her hat boxes, and pulled out ribbons, trims, and chiffon! We made montages out of the hats: hats on an anchor, hats on a pink mixer, on books, on a ukulele, on a cat. Well we tried to put the hat on Lilly the cat, but despite appearances, she's really vicious.

all photographs by MINO INOUE

Kristen Love was also kind enough to answer a few questions:

THE LINE SHEET: Who are your favorite hat designers?

KRISTEN LOVE: Philip Treacy! He is the most well known milliner and makes wonderfully eccentric hats. Each piece is a work of art. I also love Lilly Daché who made beautiful hats in the 1940s.

TLS: You have a very fun day-job, tell us about that?

LOVE: My day-job is designing swimsuits for girls and more recently, juniors markets. Swimsuits can be fun to design because there’s so much color and print. I think people are willing to step out of the box more with super bright colors when they buy swimwear. I love neons and shiny spandex! It can be a challenge!

TLS: What inspires you?

LOVE: I find inspiration everywhere. You can be on the subway and see something and think, I should try something like that on a swimsuit (or a hat). I’m in love with the Internet, I don’t know what I did with all my free time before. I love looking at style and fashion blogs. I read a ton of magazines. Cooking magazines have beautiful photos great for color inspiration. Also, some of my inspiration comes from old movies and even books -anything that evokes the idea of bygone days. I just read The Great Gatsby for the first time and now all I can think about is the 1920s.

TLS: Who are your favorite fashion designers?

LOVE: When thinking of clothes I want to wear, I really like Isabel Marant. As for swimwear -whoever designs the Betsey Johnson line does an amazing job.

TLS:Can you tell me about some of the pieces that Mino photographed?

LOVE:Blue Satin Cap - (photo #2) This is one of my favorite hats. I love the bright sapphire silk satin. It’s so luxurious!

Green Felt Hat (photo #3) – This is a felt had that I free-form-draped on a wooden head block.

Polka Dot Hat (photos #4 & #10) – This was my first turban. I was inspired by Lilly Daché, who was known for her turbans. I love the mix of shear dotted silk and the iridescent velvet.

Purple Velvet Hat (last hat in photo #4) – This iridescent velvet fascinator was a “pitch” idea for a project I did for RACHEL Rachel Roy (RRR). The inspiration for the project was a round skein of yarn. They were looking for roundness and volume.

Yellow and Orange Pillbox with Yellow Netting and Brown Hat with Big Orange Feather (photo #5 & #6) – These two hats were for a bridal-concept collection I did. My inspiration was a Kentucky backwoods-wedding. I used a lot of fall colors including burnt orange bridal satin and brown raw silk. Some of the pieces in the collection had vintage lace that was tea-dyed. I used whimsical trims like the birds and vintage needle threaders and buffalo check flannel.

Yellow Straw Hat (photos #7 & #8) – This a material called Toyo. It’s basically twisted paper that is dyed and woven into a straw pattern. It can be tricky to work with. Hats are usually shaped using steam/water. With Toyo, you don’t want to use too much steam because it will break. I wouldn’t recommend wearing this hat in the rain. But it’s a great hat for a day at the beach.

Bitsy Tan Hat with Feather Plume (photos #2 & #11) - I bought this set of doll sized wooden hat blocks on eBay. They make the cutest little cocktail hats. The material is velour felt. The feather is from …I’m not really sure. Some fake bird somewhere.

Straw Hat With Striped Bow (photo #15)– This is a classic straw cloche. I made it for myself one day before going to a barbeque. I love the nautical striped ribbon. I’m a sucker for anything nautical!

TLS: Can you tell me more about the lost art of millinery?

LOVE: Hats have played such a large roll in the past. There was a time when a woman wasn’t completely dressed to go out without her hat. Millinery is an old art form. I’m trying to create hats and headpieces that will inspire women to wear hats and keep the art of millinery alive.

TLS: Are you in the process of making a collection for Spring 2012?

LOVE: A friend has asked me to make some hats for the presentation of her upcoming Spring 2012 collection. I am also putting together my own collection for the same season. I love the 1920s and creating a collection inspired by that wonderful decade. Fingers crossed there will be a collection to show this coming fall.

X 10| NOSTALGIA FOR HARPER's BAZAAR & DOVIMA

2011-04-17T05:57:00.000-07:00

At the peculiar time of 10:54 a.m., a recent spring morning beckoned me away from my desk, to Madison Avenue where the sun seemed to sing. It was easy to imagine that Henry Mancini heard his beloved composition, B.A.T. on these very streets one morning in 1950-something, as the eye-lined bouffanted and well-suited strolled by. This day felt just like this time I never lived in, but am reminded of; the remnants in architecture and style still influence culture. I thought about the films Rear Window and Funny Face. I thought about fashion magazines from the 1950s. I thought about Richard Avedon, Carmel Snow, Diane Vreelad and Dovima and wished their influences were still seen in fashion magazines.

In the evening, I found myself on Fashionista reading about Lady Gaga and her recent article for Harper's Bazaar. In my opinion, she spoke inappropriately about Alexander McQueen, objectifying his tragic death. By trying to sound provocative, she sounded like a bore.

My nostalgia returned and I longed for the Harper's Bazaar that once was simultaneously home to Richard Avedon, Carmel Snow and Diana Vreeland. Online, I searched online for the magazines under their tenure and found this cover from February, 1952, featuring Dovima, one of the most influential models of the time.

The past isn't better, but referencing Harper's Bazaar heritage may have benefited the current issue as it lacks restraint and elegance. Ironically, it was Diana Vreeland, one of the most iconic editors of Harper's Bazaar that famously said,"elegance is refusal."

The freedom to refuse due to the countless channels for fashion media makes this era in pop culture wonderful. I don't have to depend on Harper's Bazaar for insight on fashion and culture. I can pick up a copy of an independent publication such as The Gentlewoman, or visit a witty blog such as Amateur Couture or Textbook. I can research any nostalgic whim as I just did to learn more about the likes of Dovima and Harper's Bazaar. And here is what I found:

1. One day Dorothy Virginia Margaret Juba was discovered on the streets of New York City. The next day she found herself being photographed by Irving Penn, hence the birth of Dovima, the highest-paid model of the 1950s who would be a muse to Richard Avedon and Yves Saint Laurent.

2. Harper's Bazaar began in 1867, as a weekly newspaper and featured the latest styles from Germany and Paris.

3. Dovima played the ditzy and beautiful model, Marion, in the film, Funny Face.

4. Harper's Bazaar also had a part in Funny Face. Diana Vreeland said the famous phrase delivered by Kay Thompson, before the "Think Pink" sequence: “I adore that pink! It’s the navy blue of India.”

5. Just like Marion in Funny Face, Dovima loved comic books. She once took a trunk full of comics books with her on a photo shoot in a desert of Egypt.

6. Harper's Bazaar was the first fashion magazine to feature a non-staged photo shoot. Until then, a model was photographed as in a studio, as a mannequin.

7. Richard Avedon said of Dovima: "She was the last of the great elegant, aristocratic beauties...the most remarkable and unconventional beauty of her time."

8. Paul Poiret is considered one of the greatest fashion designers. In 1913 he also was a contributing writer and illustrator to Harper's Bazaar.

9. NARS has a nail polish called Dovima. Fittingly, the color is tomato-pink.

10. Dovima's most iconic photograph, Dovima with the Elephants, was taken by Richard Avedon for Harper's Bazaar.

SHOPS | MNZ

2011-04-12T16:32:00.000-07:00

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: 1. MARION VIDAL Ancre Necklace 2. ANNTIAN Woman
Striped Shape Shoe 3. MARYAM NASSIR ZADEH located at 123 Norfolk Street 4. TENDRE
BAISER Necklace,DESIREL HAMMEN Cardigan, LINDA FARROW Sunglasses
5. LAUREN MANOOGIAN Palms Necklace 6. UNDERCOVER Furry Skirt and Silk Button Shirt
7. ELECTRIC FEATHERS Infinite Kafkan Dress 8. DIEPPA RESTREPO White Cali
Oxfords, ISABEL MARANT WALKER TROUSER 9. MANIA MANNIA Dark Earth Ring
10. SHABD Geode Maxi Skirt, UNDERCOVER Spangle Shirt, DIEPPA Grey Cali Oxfords
11. BODKIN Tulip Shirt, RACHEL COMEY Settler Skirt 12. A PEACE TREATY Gombe
Taupe Scarf, SUNO Smudged Plaid Button-Down 13. RACHEL COMEY Hitch Boot
All photographs by UDAY KAK

One Sunday, I wandered my favorite streets of the Lower East Side: Rivington, Clinton, and Norfolk. This little pocket of New York is a treasure-trove, for there are an abundance of boutiques and cafes that can make one believe, if only for a few fleeting moment, that New York is magical.

On Clinton Street there is Frankie’s which has the best French toast in the city. Rivington Street is home to Edith Machinist, a vintage store consistently filled with the best pieces from the best of times. A few doors down are the equally charming boutiques Narnia and Honey in the Rough.

And on Norfolk Street there is Maryam Nassir Zadeh. Since 2008, owners Maryam Nassir Zade and Uday Kak have curated a boutique with obscure labels from around the world. Great care is made into presenting obscure designers such as Isabel Marant, Rachel Comey, and Pepper Cotton. You are bound to discover a new designer in this space.

On this visit, I discovered ManiaMania, an Australian jewelry line. I fell in love the Dark Earth Ring (featured above). I found the mountain of silver and bronze to be avant garde, but natural and accessible. All of these pieces at MNZ have this quality. The store itself has a warmth there that doesn’t exist in some of the downtown concept boutiques. This was evident on my visit as I spent an hour (without intrusion), ooing and awing, investigating construction, asking questions, and checking prices.

The prices are high. Truthfully, I stopped at MNZ for shopping inspiration while on my way to shop the sale racks of the chain stores in SoHo. However, the beautiful pieces in the store convinced me that it would be better to hold off on shopping until I could afford to buy something special. After all, I really think the Dark Earth ring should be mine.

PHOTO DIARY | MARCH

2011-04-03T20:26:00.000-07:00

                                                                
From top to Bottom: 1. LONDON - As I was taking a picture and walking to  the other side of the

 river, there was a man sitting at the edge of the  bridge crying. Two men grabbed him before he was

 able to jump. I  watched them comfort him and get him help. It made me sad that this man was  so 

broken, but it made me happy that two people took the time to  help a stranger. I'll never forget this

 day. 2. LIBERTY  Flower Shop 3. Vintage shopping in LONDON 3. WILLIAMSBURG Cowboys 4.

  WILLIAMSBURG Street Vendors 5.  WILLIAMSBURG 6. CAMBRIDGE University 7. 

WILLIAMSBURG  8. SPITALFIELDS Market, London 9. WILLIAMSBURG 10. HOME 11  - 13.

 BRIGHTON BEACH,  14. WILLIAMSBURG 15. BRIGHTON Sunset 16. SOHO - A  thirty-

foot-aluminum-rose by Isa Genzken decorates the  New Museum 17.  HOME Doodles 18 - 19. 

WILLIAMSBURG 20. Pearls at SPITALFIELDS

032311

2011-03-23T22:40:00.000-07:00

SHOPS| A VISIT TO LIBERTY STATIONERY

Liberty recently opened a stationery shop. Paper-artist and illustrator, Andy Singleton, was commissioned to create a setting of whimsy and happenstance. His paper birds and inkwells adorn the shop along with the moss hues and charming decor that make you feel as if you are in a paper cottage. If you happen to be in London, be sure to stop by. The joys of instant connection are boundless, but there is nothing like writing a letter. If you can do so while enjoying a creme tea a few floors up, you will surely have a lovely afternoon.

031611

2011-03-16T05:05:00.000-07:00

PHOTOGRAPHERS| MEAGAN CIGNOLI

Meagan Cignoli is a photographer and creative director whose work has been featured in publications such as Women's Wear Daily and Paper. You can see her work on her website Visual Country. I discovered Meagan (@MeaganCignoli) on twitter. One day, after being inundated with tweets about the demise of Galliano, Daphne's alleged Posh bashing, and endless Fall 2011 coverage, Meagan’s images from a photo-shoot in Miami were fashion sunlight! The images invoked a spirit of the 1970s, Biba, and summer, brightened up my day. I knew there had to be an interesting story behind these images. And there is! Meagan shared her fashion fairy tale for the March issue of Prestige Magazine (France)! Et voilà! From Meagan herself...

I am a New York City fashion photographer from New York City who travels all over to create fun fashion spreads and escape bad weather! This winter I decided to spend it in Miami.

The location I found for this spread is called Wynwood. During Art Basel every year, there is another art show called Primary Flight . Primary Flight is Miami's original open-air museum and street level mural installation that takes place annually throughout the Wynwood Arts District and the Miami Design District. Primary Flight is arguably the world’s largest event of its kind, having featured over 250 world class artists from around the globe since its inception.

I took two days and my girlfriend and drove to visit over 200 walls of graffiti to find the backdrops for this shoot. The next step was casting. Model- books were sent from Ford, Elite, and Next where, I found Britt Erler. She had this big smile, these great big bangs and was just super cute. We wanted her to have a really cute and innocent look for this shoot so I booked my favorite NYC celebrity hair and makeup artist Andrea E. Wilson and recruited Miami stylist Obe Santos.

The shoot began with Britt arriving with her huge smile and amazing personality. I wish I could work with her more, she had such great energy. The entire shoot consisted of 10 different looks and 10 different streets, all having to be shot in one day. So, Obe created a suitcase out of the car trunk and for each look we restyled her in the street or in the car! Some models would really hate this, but Britt was a champ. Fortunately, we shot on a Sunday, so the streets were quiet.

At one point, five boys came by to ask what we were doing and we ended up using them as models! They actually posed for about 20 minutes with us, intensely taking direction. It was fabulous.

By the time the tenth look came to a finish, we were so ready to go to dinner. The sun was setting and the light was beautiful. A car of boys pulled up and suddenly all of our boys disappeared. But one remained. I walked over to him to ask him if we could shoot with his car.

He pointed to a hole in a graffiti-filled-wall that was well disguised and said, "Look."

I looked through the hole where there was a lot the size of 3 football fields surrounded by huge concrete walls covered in graffiti. There were a few cars covered in graffiti, completely wrecked, with piles of spray paint cans, rusted and left to die everywhere. There was one lone building, with the windows shattered and on the roof were our boys, spray-painting. It was like a scene from a film. I walked to Obe and asked, "Do you think you can style just one more look?"

So there I was. I had my team go through the hole in the wall and into the most perfect location, the most perfect light, and here are these images. Obe and I wanted to create something with lots of color and prints. I really wanted to capture the graffiti.

All photographs by MEGAN CIGNOLI for Prestige Magazine (France) | Styled by OBE SANTOS | Hair and make up by ANDREA E. WILSON | Model: BRITT ERLER

ONE LOOK| DONNA KARAN'S PEARL OF WISDOM

2011-02-26T22:08:00.000-08:00

A belted coat, ribbed tights, suede pumps, and a necklace tangled in a sheer scarf: all in grey, save for marigold-dusted eyes and bubble-gum painted lips. 

 
Donna Karan's Fall 2011 collection, Pearls of Wisdom, explored a Hitchcock heroine enveloped in a cloud of dusty pearls. Perhaps,this look is a bit theatrical, but who hasn't had the desire to dress in a Grace Kelly inspired ensemble? Sometimes such desires, override the duty of a daily uniform consisting of jeans and flats or a little black dress. Don't those days seem to be a bit more magical? 
Of course there aren't many days that would require you to dress like a grey pearl, but broken up, any of these pieces will add charm to the daily uniform. If one is is unable to afford a trip to Donna Karan, this look can serve as inspiration. A scarf can be fashioned from a yard of chiffon. A vintage pearl necklace can be easily found at a flea market or Goodwill. Crown your that pretty head of yours with a bun. MAC produces fantastic pink lipsticks. There must be a gray belt lurking around the closet. If you don't have a grey coat, get one! Anyone will do after it is tailored! And voila: a fashion daydream can come true. 

 Donna Karan is able to create lovely clothes, but she is also able to provoke beautiful ideas. Bravo to team Donna Karan for their pearls of wisdom that have added an attainable grace to Fall 2011. There are so many options to be derived from this grey pearl.

LOOK BOOKS | SAMANTHA PLEET

2011-02-21T02:12:00.000-08:00

SHAMAN DRESS | Photographs by Andrew De Francesco courtesy of Samantha Pleet | Styled by Kat Clements

Samantha Pleet's Fall 2011 collection was inspired by mythology, astronomy, and a recent trip to Iceland. Just as her previous collections, Pleet's modern take on craftsmanship and her attention to detail enable her clothing to lie in that rare realm of being both sophisticated and whimsical.

Although some of last week's presentations were wonderful, a fashion show in the end, is a marketing tool. Sadly there were times this week when it was not about the clothes at all (but rather the Bravo Housewives celebrities who attended). The "Fashion-Week-Pepsi-can" received more publicity than some aplomb-worthy designers. One must ask, is having a fashion show absolutely necessary? Maybe not. SAMANTHA PLEET was one New York designer who chose not to have a formal presentation last week. Rather, she decided to put her resources into her Fall 2011 collection, and it shows. This collection will be perfectly fine without a fashion show.

Pleet describes this as "bringing enchantment to everyday life." Of her collection she says , "I spent an endless amount of time working out the details of the collection, bringing out the magic in each piece. I wanted the line to feel more luxurious than ever before....The V shaped hemlines and details are really flattering on the form and the use of embroidery, tassels and a light dusting of star buttons embellishes the pieces without distracting from the silhouettes."

I spoke (via email) with Pleet about her new collection. Below are a few of my favorite looks with a few comments from the designer herself who gave me more insight into her a beautiful fall, composed of rich colors, silk, velvet and English tweed.

LEGION DRESS

THE LINE SHEET| I don't know what I love more: the color, the silhouette, or the asymmetrical hem. This is a well executed modern take on the shift dress which is not flattering on most figures. Your version will be a perfect fit for everybody! What fabric is this?

SAMANTHA PLEET| The fabric is washed, silk broadcloth. The bodice of this dress is inspired by ancient armor; the seams on the bodice mimic
the metal plates [of armor].

MOON BLAZER AND CONSTELLATION SHORTS

THE LINE SHEET| A pair of shorts, button down, and blazer is my uniform! I wore my favorite navy blue blazer to shreds and am without one. The moons on the collars makes this blazer special. And the print on the shorts is lovely. What is it exactly?

SAMANTHA PLEET| I created the print myself. It is a drawing of the night's sky embroidered all over black, cotton-velvet fabric. The moons are embroidered on the blazer's velvet lapels. The blazer's self-fabric is charcoal English wool tweed.

PRIEST AND LORE SKIRT

THE LINESHEET| This is a great blouse that will always be in style. Is it wool?
I appreciate the design of this skirt.

SAMANTHA PLEET| The blouse is made from a cotton doubled gauze fabric.
It has a lot of texture like wool.

CARAVAN DRESS

THE LINE SHEET| This is a great color! The shape and detailing are so fun.

This is a dress for an "it" girl such as Alexa Chung or Chloë Sevigny wear this.

This would be the perfect dress for a girl in a band!

This is the dream dress for a girl on stage. I could see Emilie Simon wearing this!

SAMANTHA PLEET| Me too!

CELESTIAL BLOUSE AND CAPE SHORTS

THE LINE SHEET| The shape of the blouse and the shorts together are a flattering pair.

The pop of red is perfect for fall.

SAMANTHA PLEET| The blouse is the made from double gauze cotton,

that is embroidered all over with the night-sky print I designed!

*Did you know that SAMANTHA PLEET has a blog called THE PLEET STREET JOURNAL? Here, she shares her inspiration, journeys to faraway places,and even special sales! Her blog is a must-read for fashion lovers. Her confidence, and love for life is absolutely infectious! Below are a few images (some from PSJ) from the lookbook photo-shoot.

FALL FASHION WEEK 2011| KAELEN

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Photograph by David Prutting

For her namesake Fall 2011 collection, Kaelen Farncombe was inspired by Sam Haskin's Cowboy Kate and Other Stories, Victorian heirlooms and a romantic old Wild West. KAELEN was among a crop of designers this season to present a variation of the theme, Americana, which has become a popular point-of-reference in the last few years. This aesthetic can be dangerous territory for designers. Referencing anything iconic often results in a garment that is a caricature, seemingly made to pull on our heart strings. However, Farncombe understands this, and has successfully created a contemporary collection that references a yearned for yesteryear, and suggests that the future, is just as covetable.

And there are many covetable pieces in this collection: a hazel wool coat with a contrasting teal collar, a mustard floor-length silk dress that is unbelievably wearable, a tomato colored blazer that would be a refreshing substitute for the predictable navy, a pleated wrap-skirt that is both mini and maxi. Sumptuous knits, clever prints, and fringed leather certainly prove that KAELEN is capable of creating her very own iconic pieces.

One need not look any further than KAELEN's gang of girls during Saturday's presentation located at Drive In Studios to understand. The girls were perfectly styled (imagine Blondie meets Laura Ingalls) with loose braids braids (some in corn rows), charcoaled eyes, and roper boots hand-painted by Audrey Louise Reynolds. To further encapsulate the collection, great detail went into the décor: twinkling lights, rustic wood panels, and even a mechanical bull. Unfortunately this attention to detail was not extended to the look-book. However, this is a small snafu. In the end, it is really is about the clothes, and these leave one excited for next fall.

The AJ COAT in army and teal is an absolute must-have | Photograph by Marco Pedde

The SARAH dress | Photograph by Marco Pedde

Photograph | by David Prutting

Hand painted roper boots by ALR with the LORETTA dress | Photograph by Marco Pedde

FALL FASHION WEEK 2011| THAKOON

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I have a secret-photographer-friend who wanted to share a these backstage moments from

Thakoon. Look closely and you'll find NARS makeup artist, Diane Kendal who is responsible for the brilliant red eye you see here.

If you are brave enough to try it, find out how to get the look here.

THE LINE SHEET |

2011-02-04T22:56:00.001-08:00

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